Conterno Nervi

Founded in 1906, Nervi is the oldest cantina in Gattinara, and it has impressive holdings to show for it in two of the appellation’s greatest crus—Molsino and Valferana—as well as the top sites of Garavoglie and Cassace.

There is no name more revered in Piemontese wine today than Roberto Conterno. Roberto is descended from two Barolo giants, grandfather Giacomo and father Giovanni. He is the third generation of the Conterno family to fashion what are, for many, the ultimate and purest expressions of Barolo. Roberto Conterno came to know Nervi’s potential well before the purchase. Nervi was acquired by a group of Norwegian investors in 2001, and Roberto’s friend and Barolo connoisseur, Erling Astrup, was the lead partner. Through Erling, Roberto visited the estate often and came to be friendly with the winemaking team.

When the group decided to sell the estate, Astrup wanted to see it in the hands of someone with a true appreciation of its history, tradition and potential. And so, Roberto was given the first opportunity to acquire Nervi – an offer he found irresistible.

In recent years, Nervi has made three Gattinara cuvées—the two grands crus, Molsino and Valferana, and a blended Gattinara including fruit from these two, plus grapes from the excellent crus of Garavoglie and Cassace. In addition, a crisp, fruit-driven rosato named Il Rosato is made from Gattinara-sourced Nebbiolo. Made by strictly old-school methods, including lengthy fermentations and three to four years aging in neutral Slovenian oak botti, the Nervi Gattinaras have consistently been among the great Nebbiolos of the Alto Piemonte.

With characteristic humility, Roberto doesn’t intend to change the classic style in which these wines have long been made. He says: “Instead, I hope to learn from these wines.” Yet, Roberto’s incessant drive to improve—and his masterful touch and perfectionist attention to detail in both vineyard and cellar—are already taking this historic Gattinara estate to new heights. In the process, he is alerting the world’s collectors to the potential of this great wine region.